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ABREU MADRONA RANCH 2013

DESCRIPTION: Is anyone anywhere in the world making more consistently profound wines than the famous viticulturalist David Abreu and his long-time sidekick and assistant, former chef Brad Grimes? Working from relatively small sites, two of them adjacent to the back streets of St. Helena (the six-acre Cappella Vineyard alongside a cemetery and the home estate of Madrona Ranch at the base of Spring Mountain) to the co-owned vineyard with Ric Forman, the magnificent Thorevilos Vineyard behind the Meadowood Resort. There is also his own 2,000-foot elevation site on Howell Mountain. These wines are all proprietary reds, probably containing at least 60-65% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest largely Cabernet Franc with a little Petit Verdot and occasionally tiny amounts of Merlot. They spend a full two years in 100% new French oak and are bottled without any fining or filtration. They are exquisite examples of Bordeaux blends that are true first growths in every sense. So how do I go about describing these wines, which are so exciting and satisfying on both hedonistic and intellectual levels?----Robert Parker

Robert Parker: The 2013 Madrona Ranch hits the magic three-digit score. It is literally a 30- to 45-year wine in itself. It behaves like a ripe, complex first growth Pauillac, with blackberry and crème de cassis, a touch of licorice, black truffle, pen ink and graphite. Incredibly fragrant, extremely full-bodied, with abundant tannin but also enormous fruit extract and richness, it is an amazing wine and a profound effort from Abreu and Grimes.---100 PT

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